Pure Project – Ingredients Making a Difference

Pure Project Brewing, located at 9030 Kenamar Dr. in San Diego, is an early success of H.G. Fenton’s Brewery Igniter project launched in 2015.  I asked Mat Robar, one of the founders of Pure Project about the direction the brewery is heading and their vision for beer making. Initially Robar and his business partners, Jesse & Agi Pine, intended to set up a brewery in Costa Rica, but the infrastructure in that country didn’t support their plans. They became aware of the Brewery Igniter project and were able to move in and start brewing in just six months, opening their doors in January 2016. This column previously reviewed Amplified Ale Works, next door, another success story from Brewery Igniter.

While they were setting up brewing operations in Costa Rica, the partners came across unique ingredients at the farmers markets and hoped to include them in their beers.  Their desire to use pure, local, and unique local ingredients, which support environmental sustainability, fueled their vision for the brewery.  Additionally, Robar said that Pure Project donates 1% of gross sales to local environmental non-profit organizations, Surfrider, Outdoor Outreach and San Diego Coastkeeper.  He added that a commitment to sustainability involves numerous business decisions.  Those decisions include how ingredients are sourced, how merchandising decisions are made, and other facets of the business. They want to be a part of the local and global community and tell an interesting story about each beer.

Pure Project’s approach to beer making often starts by considering the unique ingredient, such as peaches, strawberries, or honey, and crafting the beer around it. I also talked to head Brewer Winslow Sawyer about his beer making style. Other examples of his approach to beer making are in the use of 100% organic local ingredients in some of the beers.  They have been trying out California grown organic base malt for example. Additionally, they use local water that is filter but not stripped of its character. Some of his yeasts have been cultivated from the local air and fruit. The accumulation of these sourcing decisions is restoring the terroir in beer making, an idea from wine making where the complete natural local environment influences the taste of the product.

The tasting room itself is cozy. Wood paneling lines the walls along with hanging ivy decoration, evoking a sense of the jungle.  Nature films running on the wall to add to the ambience.  This is a clearly a popular destination, there was a full room of customers tasting flights of beers on a Friday afternoon.  The two year anniversary is coming up in January. Sawyer said that there are plans to released some beers that been cellared and some new varieties and a canned beer that is in collaboration. 

Of course, I spent time tasting beer, not just talking about it.  I started with the German Pilsner Rein. The full biscuit flavor of this beer was nicely balanced with extra hop character from the imported noble hops. Delilah, a Belgian Blonde, is slightly sweetened by wild flower honey from Temecula.  Strong clove notes characteristic of this style are balanced by the honey in the background.  La Vie en Rosé is a Saison with a beautiful deep pink pour, and nice carbonation.  It was light, refreshing, and floral with a slightly sour taste balanced again by honey.  Murklands is one of many “murky” or hazy beers on tap, a rye IPA.  Sawyer said that the term murky is intended to distinguish from the New England hazy style, as Pure Project’s IPAs are in the San Diego tradition.  Murklands had a creamy mouth feel and tropical and peach hopping that made me want to drink it in big gulps.  I finished this tasting with a double IPA punctuated by strong coconut and tropical flavors, Pipa Fría. It was less bitter than most IPAs, but the hop oil lingered in aftertaste, which I enjoy.

I came back the next day to try some more because one flight didn’t do justice to their variety.  Crème de la Pêche is a seasonal cream ale using peaches that was light, creamy and very easy to drink.  Sawyer rotates Valencia, Blood Oranges, and strawberries with this ale on a seasonal basis.  The Dry Irish Stout, Milagro, was one of my favorites.  It was very rich and creamy, a little bitter with great coffee flavor. Oatverdose is another murky IPA, made with oats.  It was another refreshing offering, with classic grapefruit notes up front and good carbonation for a full mouth feel. I finished with a big imperial stout, Prime Evils.  It was dark, sweet, and boozy, which hid the subtle pepper notes.  Not for everyone, but one of my favorites.

Pure Project is making a difference with their sustainable approach to beer making and their use of unique ingredients.  They are worth your visit, especially if you are a fan of murky beers.

Mat Robar in front of the robust line up at Pure Project.

This article was originally published in the Clairemont Times on page 13.