Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Karl Strauss Brewing – Picnic Perfect

In 1989, Karl Strauss Brewing established the first local brewery San Diego had seen since 1953. Many have argued that this started the current craft beer revolution that has made San Diego the beer capital of the world. Even though Karl Strauss is the granddaddy of San Diego craft beer, I had not given them much thought until a few years ago when I started to see their expanded line up. Their push into new beer styles has paid off; they won a slew of awards and have been able to expand locations. Most recently, they brought home the 2016 award for mid-size brewer of the year at the Great American Beer Festival. I dropped by the Karl Strauss Tasting Room & Beer Garden at 5985 Santa Fe Street. This venue is secluded and comfortable. There is a large outdoor area just made for picnicking at long wood tables dominated by enormous red coral trees. While I was there, a few families were present, partying with their children, toting take-out pizza and enjoying outdoor bean bag. There is also an indoor tasting area where you can kibbutz with servers about the beer. Most of Karl Strauss’ lineup is on tap, including new offerings from the brewpubs that are being tested out. This Santa Fe street location is also the main production facility.

I interviewed Paul Segura, Head Brewmaster for Research and Development. Segura was formerly just Head Brewmaster, but operations have grown so large with 10 brewpubs each with their own brewery on-premise that head brewmaster duties had to be split. He is in charge of new beer development, brand development and is the go-to spokesman for the brewery. Segura is also an Adjunct professor at UCSD in Brewery Operations and appears on the 91X “Beer for Breakfast” program. Segura told me that each of the Brewers at the 10 brewpubs is allowed creativity in new beer offerings. Sometimes they are given a focus area, but in any case, the beers from the brewpubs also make their way onto the twenty tap lineup at The Tasting Room on Santa Fe Street. The brewpub experiments can also end up as part of the standard lineup. Mosaic Session IPA, one of my favorites, was the result of Sean Albrecht's efforts at the downtown brewpub. Segura said that Karl Strauss is aiming to be the best at beer and food pairing at their brewpubs.

In addition to the brewpub offerings, there is a seasonal rotation of beers at the tasting room. Right now the Oktoberfest beers are being brewed, with emphasis on the traditional German styles. Each year a new Christmas beer will be offered. In 2011, Two Tortugas, a Belgian Quad was introduced that become a favorite and was brewed another 6 times; it was in my favorite style and convinced me to start trying Karl Strauss beers again. In January, there will be a changing of the barrels, as the oak aged beers that have sat for one year are brought. There is an opportunity to taste beers that will be aged before they go into the barrel, and to come back a year later to see what the aging has done. February 2 will bring a new anniversary ale. Summertime has its own specialty beers, which were available for this tasting.

Paul Segura sharing a Mosaic IPA.

I asked Segura if the brewery is part of Pacific Beach or Bay Ho, as their seemed to be some controversy on the matter. His take is that they are in PB. They produce a collaboration beer once a month that is only sold in PB and benefits BeautifulPB.com. The brewery also participates in local beach cleanup days, considering themselves part of that community.

I tasted some of the beers not in permanent rotation. Liquid A/C English Summer Ale is one of the summertime brews. I noticed lemon from the hops up front, with dry toasty malt giving body to a bright refreshing ale. Belly Button Birthday ale was brewed in celebration of the one year anniversary of the Anaheim brewpub. This hazy double IPA was intensely hopped but not exceptionally bitter. Passion fruit dominates the taste; this ale is very smooth for an IIPA. Singularity Black IPA had an unforeseen citrus hoppy taste, when its rich dark brown color seemed to indicate roastier taste. The darker roast flavors are subtle and in the background. I also tried some milder styles, starting with Comb the Desert Dark Lager; roasted coffee comes through along with nutty, toasty lager flavor. Desk Pop Ale was my first ever sampling of the English Mild style. It was as mild as advertised, but malty, like a milder version of an ESB and very sessionable.

I also tried some varieties that you can find in bottles at the store. Big Barrel Double IPA is exactly what I want in a double. Brewed with New Zealand hops, the grapefruit hits you right away and the bitterness lingers. Sip slowly because it is 9% alcohol. Wreck Alley Imperial Stout is named after an area of ship wrecks off Mission Beach. The balance between bitter roast, sweet chocolate and coffee flavors is just right. I finished with Mosaic Session IPA. I could smell the citrus as my beer was served. It is also, a good summer IPA at only 5% alcohol, I enjoyed its bounty of hop complexity.

If you had forgotten about Karl Strauss among the 150 breweries that followed in their footsteps in San Diego, it’s time to give them another look. Where better than at their beer garden?

This article was originally published in the Clairemont Times on page 13

No comments:

Post a Comment