I interviewed Paul Segura, Head Brewmaster for Research and Development. Segura was formerly just Head Brewmaster, but operations have grown so large with 10 brewpubs each with their own brewery on-premise that head brewmaster duties had to be split. He is in charge of new beer development, brand development and is the go-to spokesman for the brewery. Segura is also an Adjunct professor at UCSD in Brewery Operations and appears on the 91X “Beer for Breakfast” program. Segura told me that each of the Brewers at the 10 brewpubs is allowed creativity in new beer offerings. Sometimes they are given a focus area, but in any case, the beers from the brewpubs also make their way onto the twenty tap lineup at The Tasting Room on Santa Fe Street. The brewpub experiments can also end up as part of the standard lineup. Mosaic Session IPA, one of my favorites, was the result of Sean Albrecht's efforts at the downtown brewpub. Segura said that Karl Strauss is aiming to be the best at beer and food pairing at their brewpubs.
In addition to the brewpub offerings, there is a seasonal rotation of beers at the tasting room. Right now the Oktoberfest beers are being brewed, with emphasis on the traditional German styles. Each year a new Christmas beer will be offered. In 2011, Two Tortugas, a Belgian Quad was introduced that become a favorite and was brewed another 6 times; it was in my favorite style and convinced me to start trying Karl Strauss beers again. In January, there will be a changing of the barrels, as the oak aged beers that have sat for one year are brought. There is an opportunity to taste beers that will be aged before they go into the barrel, and to come back a year later to see what the aging has done. February 2 will bring a new anniversary ale. Summertime has its own specialty beers, which were available for this tasting.
Paul Segura sharing a Mosaic IPA. |
I asked Segura if the brewery is part of Pacific Beach or Bay Ho, as their seemed to be some controversy on the matter. His take is that they are in PB. They produce a collaboration beer once a month that is only sold in PB and benefits BeautifulPB.com. The brewery also participates in local beach cleanup days, considering themselves part of that community.
I tasted some of the beers not in permanent rotation. Liquid A/C English Summer Ale is one of the summertime brews. I noticed lemon from the hops up front, with dry toasty malt giving body to a bright refreshing ale. Belly Button Birthday ale was brewed in celebration of the one year anniversary of the Anaheim brewpub. This hazy double IPA was intensely hopped but not exceptionally bitter. Passion fruit dominates the taste; this ale is very smooth for an IIPA. Singularity Black IPA had an unforeseen citrus hoppy taste, when its rich dark brown color seemed to indicate roastier taste. The darker roast flavors are subtle and in the background. I also tried some milder styles, starting with Comb the Desert Dark Lager; roasted coffee comes through along with nutty, toasty lager flavor. Desk Pop Ale was my first ever sampling of the English Mild style. It was as mild as advertised, but malty, like a milder version of an ESB and very sessionable.
I also tried some varieties that you can find in bottles at the store. Big Barrel Double IPA is exactly what I want in a double. Brewed with New Zealand hops, the grapefruit hits you right away and the bitterness lingers. Sip slowly because it is 9% alcohol. Wreck Alley Imperial Stout is named after an area of ship wrecks off Mission Beach. The balance between bitter roast, sweet chocolate and coffee flavors is just right. I finished with Mosaic Session IPA. I could smell the citrus as my beer was served. It is also, a good summer IPA at only 5% alcohol, I enjoyed its bounty of hop complexity.
If you had forgotten about Karl Strauss among the 150 breweries that followed in their footsteps in San Diego, it’s time to give them another look. Where better than at their beer garden?
This article was originally published in the Clairemont Times on page 13
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