Mikkeller Brewing – Danish Itinerant Finds a Home in San Diego

Mikkeller Brewing San Diego, has a different legacy than the other local breweries reviewed here.  The brewery, located at 9366 Cabot Dr. in Miramar, the product of a collaboration by famous Danish brewer, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, and AleSmith.  Mikkeller Brewing San Diego moved into AleSmith’s former location and opened its doors just over a year ago. Bjergsø had previously achieved fame as an “itinerant” brewer, traveling breweries in Europe and America as a guest brewer.  Beer Geek Breakfast, an Oatmeal Stout with coffee, garnered international attention in 2006, and put Mikkeller brewing on the map.

The tasting room is large and friendly.  Wood bench seats and chairs line the long oak-colored tables.  I also had plenty of room to stand and walk around.  Advertised as dog and kid friendly, there was one baby in a papoose and two small pooches present.  Heavy metal rock was on the sound system, but the baby didn’t seem to mind.  On my second visit, mellow disco dominated the play list. The PokeCraft food truck was offering up bowls with Ahi, Salmon, in traditional, garlic and spicy varieties.  On both trips, the tasting room was comfortably full; filled with customers from their twenties into their sixties. I enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and low lighting in the main area tasting area.  There is also a brighter room to the side of the entrance that catches more sunlight.

The beer at Mikkeller is a wide ranging eclectic mix. The menu was lighter on West Coast IPAs.  There were 19 beers on tap for my visit; not every variety was sampled, but I did my best.  California Dream, a pilsner that was hopped up as advertised, with plenty of citrus and tropical fruit notes up front.  Sensible Sweater was a new style for me, a New England style American Pale Ale, with lemon drops and brewed with Mosaic hops.  It was hazy with low bitterness, and a juicy mouth feel. Flip Mode was another new style, a Belgian Amber, brewed in collaboration with Monkey Paw. It was a bit sweet, still hoppy, while retaining coriander spice notes Belgians are known for.  The brewery’s flagship IPA is Waves (Bølger), a well carbonated IPA that gives off a nice grapefruit aroma that you taste up front.  It finishes with a bitter piney aftertaste that lets you know you are drinking a San Diego IPA.  The entry into the Double IPA category, is Spells (Filiokus). It had extra malt and alcohol, but not overwhelming bitterness from the grapefruit and lemon hop notes.

After the IPAs, I shifted gears to some sweeter beers.  Shapes, a Belgian Blonde, was very refreshing. It’s mild honey flavor combined nicely with cinnamon and banana spice notes. Mikkeller collaborated with AleSmith on their porter.  It poured very dark and had a nice roasted flavor, with spicy hops for great balance. My last two beers were great for dessert.  Wee Sticky Icky, a Wee Heavy (Scotch Ale) with pecan and caramel syrup was like a caramel sundae with malt.  The famous Beer Geek Breakfast was delicious, a great stout with lots of coffee flavor, with just a hint of chocolate.  Beer Geek Brunch Weasel, Imperial Oatmeal Stout version was also very good. This was a great beer to finish up with, very smooth and rich, lots of lacing on the glass and very thick.  The coffee didn’t overwhelm, but was definitely present.

Mikkeller has brought European craft brewing to San Diego, expanding the style boundary well beyond West Coast IPAs. They are worth a visit, especially if you love stouts and a relaxed atmosphere.

The tasting room at Mikkeller San Diego with 18 beers on tap.

This article was originally published in the Clairemont Times on page 13 and the Mira Mesa News on page 7.

In a subsequent interview with Peter Zien of Alesmith, he said that he still advises Mikkeller on aspects of the local beer business, but his involvement has decreased as Mikkeller has established itself.

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